Denmark

Our hotel (Cabinn City) is an easy walk from the train station and is big with small rooms (cabins) and expensive! We are thinking this may be because the Ice Hockey is on plus the Copenhagen Marathon tomorrow. We go grab a kebab for dinner and do indeed see all the Swedish Hockey fans.

We take a walk towards Christiansborg Palace which is closed but it looks like the tower is open. I can’t be fagged climbing up a million stairs so we continue on our way. (Bad decision, there is a restaurant up there and so the viewing platform is open till 9pm and you have to take the lift not stairs! We could have gone up without a queue in sight).

We orientate ourselves to the info centre and head back to the hotel past the Tivoli – one of the oldest theme parks in the world.

Day 2
So we just realised today is not a good day to hire bikes with so many of the inner city roads closed for the marathon. We walked around and headed back to Christiansborg Palace to climb the tower. There is a big riding arena in front. In the palace’s hey day they would have had 270 horses stabled. Now there are only 25 that are brought in for special occasions. I would have loved to see them.

The tower is a bit of a rigmarole as only 40 people can be up there at one time, you have to put your bags through security and Troy has his pocket knife taken off him for collection later, then you have to go up in a lift that takes 8 at a time. Anyway, good views, all the different steeples make it easy to orientate yourself around the city.

We walked up to the Round Tower that we spied from the tower.

We carry on to the David Collection. This is a private art collection that the tourist info recommended just beside the Kings Gardens. David Samling started collecting art as a young lawyer. As his fortune rose so did his collection. He had a particular interest in Islamic art but also collected beautiful china, furniture, paintings and these gorgeous chandeliers. Never marrying, on his death he left his money to the museum foundation for the continuance of the art collection.

It was now 2.30pm and we thought we would be safe to hire bikes for 24hrs. The guy was really nice as we didn’t have cash and let us pay on return of bikes.
Riding in Copenhagen is great fun. Everyone rides bikes, there are special bike lanes with their own traffic lights and the Danish ride fast. It is only the floundering tourists wondering where they are going that hold it all up. Very easy to get in to the flow, just follow where everyone else goes, plus they are very good at doing hand signals, especially the stop one when they are slowing down, very helpful. If you park your bike somewhere popular, I have no idea how you find it again.

We rode through Nyhavn then all the way up to the Star Fort.

Lots of people in the deck chairs just hanging out. It really is a national pass-time.

Carried on to the iconic little Mermaid, just madness, people and boats everywhere.

We crossed a bridge and rode down the other side of the canal. Still people everywhere sun bathing in their togs, enjoying the weekend sun. We have so lucked the weather – hard to imagine it being cold here. I wonder if they get the wet and wind as much as we do, or just the cold cold temperatures.

Headed back to our apartment for a coffee then rode back out to grab dinner later. Kebabs it was again, not so busy out tonight being Sunday though we could still hear the screams from Tivoli going on.

Day 3 Copenhagen
Today we have the bikes again so set out to explore the city taking all the green routes we can see. There are a set of four big man made lakes and we get on to the trail going up the left hand side. They are not that beautiful but have swans and this one that was nesting wasn’t too bothered by our proximity. People here seem to find any open space to sit and relax, sunbath or take time out.

We cut in and sort of follow the walking trail up through Ngborg. We go round a church and through a park and end up in the Cemetary Park. This is a working cemetary and signs note this, saying that people are allowed to hang out but basically to be discreet with the sunbathing.

We loop around and come down through the main shopping area. Ngyen is a bustling little suburb. We hit the lakes again and carry on up. They are not that deep, and not that clean, so to see a couple of guys fishing was interesting. We rode down through what I thought was the Botanical gardens, but wasn’t.  You have to push your bikes in the Botanical gardens so we meant to return after we dropped the bikes back but forgot.
We come across Rosenborg Palace. I was sort of interested in having a look but unfortunately we have become a little desensitised to it all and where it should be ‘wow’ is becoming oh another palace. The guards were a bit funny, a bit half hearted about it all. We walked around the outside and through in to the King’s gardens.

In the outer part it seems a very popular place to hang and there are people eveywhere. Some in their bikinis, some in their undies, some in not much. Teens dancing and being loud, lots of Mums and children. We decide to go Danish so lie in the sun for awhile, Troy with his shirt off, me just in my shorts and singlet.

We drop the bikes of and walk back in to Nyhavn to enjoy the vibe and have a beer by the canal till about 5pm.

We walked back to the hotel past these pretty little gardens at the end of our street.

I’m feeling the need for salad so have chicken and mixed salad for dinner – very yum. Watched the South Park show which I have never seen. Um, pretty inappropriately funny, but funny.

Copenhagen – Aarhus

Packed and off to the station, going to Aarhus, just made the 10.52am train. Nice train – fast, 3hrs 15 for the trip. We go in a very long tunnel then come out on a very long bridge beside the cars which had come over another long bridge. It’s all very impressive these transportation routes. The scenery is much greener and more agricultural. Fields of yellow Canola plants are so pretty and bright!

Easy enough directions to Danhostel Aarhus, right in the very middle of town.

This is a much more relaxed sort of place even thought it is Denmark’s second-largest city, but calls itself the “World’s Smallest Big City”. Our room was OK but in a noisy spot so we drop our stuff and head down to the Info centre which is in this great big new building at the port – Dokka. We don’t actually learn much more than we did from the hostel but Troy finds out there are free city bikes, you put in 20 krone and when you relock the bike you get the money out. He thinks that’s marvellous. We walk round to the big Food Market, funky food stalls and shared area to eat/drink. Love these long street names.

I want to go to the glass walkway so we find Smillers Department store and head for the roof. It is so amazingly cool. You don’t have to buy at the cafe/restaurant to go up and its a big area with all different levels and spaces that people can hang out. I mean they don’t even have that great weather here, but still build things like this on the top of their buildings?!

Went across the river in to the big square, there was a small anti-Israel protest, went up by the Church and Opera House.

Had some dinner then headed past the art gallery with the rainbow walk around the top. We didn’t go up but it looks neat, missed getting a photo of the purple side, pity it doesn’t rotate as well.

Carried on up to Gamla By which is a working old town museum. It had just closed but you can still walk around it which we did. They usually have all the old crafts been demonstrated along with the eateries and gift shops.

We exited out into some gardens and there were loads of young people hanging out, some with mini BBQs others picnics some just chatting and waiting for the sun to set.
This is a university town so tonnes of young people and tonnes of bikes. Talking of bikes we come across a ‘City Bike’ stand. OK lets try them, they are heavy and horrible but we are mostly down hill going back so give them a go. Found a stand near our hostel and parked them up. Didn’t seem all that bad (especially after a wine).

Day 2 Aarhus
Next morning which ended up being late morning we go searching for city bikes which is a bit of an effort but we finally get some, mine seems to not particularly want to go forward but I persevere. We ride along the coast because I want to go to the Deer Park. Apparently you can walk through the park and the deers are fairly tame. We don’t have any food but I am sure they are well fed. We swap bikes at another bike station to see if we can find better ones, but not really. It is hot and there is a bit of wind and I am starting to lose the plot. If we had hired nice mountain bikes this would have been a really great day, there are tracks everywhere, green areas and parks and I am battling with this shitty bike, not happy ☹️.
Moving on, the deer were very tame, very interested in any food anyone had and there were lots. We walked around and read the info. All they ask is that you just feed them carrots or apples – not bread and spaghetti (which people were doing) and not to enter the park at night so they can rest well. I just don’t imagine this sort of thing being available in NZ. They have feeding troughs and I’m sure a few people are employed to look after them, but you are free to go in the double gates and do as you please really.

Riding back we stopped on some of their stoney beaches. Apparently this walkway ring has been put up just for the summer – it’s called Infinity. Not sure if its for fun or its art, but people were swimming and it was darn cool (wider than it looks). Quite clear water but a bit of organic stuff floating around.

We rode up to the royal summer palace – Marselisborg. It is set on 32 acres and when the royal family is not staying, the public may walk in the gardens. It was just beautiful with a great view out to see. I can just see all the children running round and having a great time. I don’t know about that art piece that looks like a… pod?

Wound our way back to the Train Station, ditched the bikes and checked out train tickets for tomorrow. We know we have to possibly change trains and just wanted to be sure. Luckily there’s a direct train that suits so will take that.
Look at all the bike, you must lose one sometime surely?

walked back up the river, this park was great had an outdoor ping pong table, basketball hoop and this panna cage thing for playing football in a confined space.

Loved this statue – a circle spelling ‘Fundamentalism”.

Had dinner at the food market then did two loads of washing which was well overdue and hit the sack.

Aarhus to Skagen

Managed to get our train with minutes to spare. Bit of confusion over the ticket machines and not being able to get it to change to English so Troy went to find the ticket info but the queue there was huge. You don’t have to book seat numbers, you just get on the train and grab a seat (and move if someone else has it booked). None of the main trains we have been on during the day have been full so its not been a problem but somehow this time we got booked seats so ended up costing us $30 more.
Got to Skargen and found our way to Toftgarden Guest house, one of our loveliest so far. Really nice big outdoor area for relaxing. Best of all was the pillow, so comfy I wanted to take it with me.

Walked in to town and found… all the houses are yellow. Well there are other colours, but I guess as a heritage town most of them like to keep it that way.

This seems to be one of those places where our direction radars aren’t working too well and we can’t quite find our way. Finally get to the info site and the woman sees us coming, whips her sign inside and locks the door pronto. I understand if its closing time, you want to go home but she could have been a bit more friendly with it. All the fish market and fish restaurants are red.

Carried on around back to the train station and hired some bikes for the 24hr period.

Went back cooked dinner then rode to the other coast (we are on a very narrow piece of land) to watch the sunset. Windmills at the end of the road.

It was quite cold and windy but quite a crowd was gathering. What’s with the sausage advert??

We amused ourselves while waiting.

I had read that everyone clapped when the sun finally disappeared so we were ready to participate. So the sun went down and everyone just walked off – so disappointing, we had a little clap ourselves.

Skargen only has a population of around 8000 but they get around 2 million visitors annually. Over the years the famous ‘light’ of Skagen has attracted and provided inspiration to numerous painters who have come to this area because the light is meant to be ‘perfect’.

It is a pretty town with a barren sort of landscape towards the tip. Sunset was at 9.38pm so we raced back in the dusk, parking our bikes in the shed by about 10pm.

Day 2 Skagen

So a day of biking. Set off to ride up to Grenen then walk the 1.5kkm to the very tip of Northern Denmark. We come across a big white lighthouse, then further along a big brick one. There is also a bird observatory here and bird watchers club. This globe shows the migratory paths of the birds.

We carry on and get as far as we can by bike.

We lock them up then walk along the beach to where the Skagerrak and Kattegat seas meet in clashing waves. Kattegat flows into the Baltic Sea, and Skagerrak into the North Sea. Theoretically you can have a foot in both seas. Swimming is prohibited as a dangerous undertow is created. Obviously a popular spot, if you can’t walk you can take the Sandormen (Sand Worm).

We ride back to town, through and out the other side looking for the sand covered church from the late 14th century. The church was officially given permission to be abandoned in the 1500s as they could not win the battle with the sand storms which were covering the church and surrounding graveyard. The church was demolished but the tower left as a monument.

Headed back to town, this really is a puzzling place, I just think I’ve got a handle on it when we find another area to explore.

By the train station I see this automated lawnmower. I think its marvellous. It just bumps into things, backs up and sets off on another direction. When it needs charging it returns to its base and gets a charge. My Dad Denis would have loved it. By the end of our journeys we had seen quite a few of them.

We rode back to our place cause we thought riding to the train station with our backpacks on would be easier than walking. I’ve already had a couple of ‘offs’ so wasn’t convinced it was a good idea but managed. Bought our train tickets, probably didn’t validate them properly (again) as there was no conductor on the train, managed to change trains in the right place and got to Hirtshals. Not much happening there, waited for the shuttle bus which was a rip off but we never would have found our way to the right dock as our ship wasn’t in. Turns out it was 45min behind schedule as there had been a major traffic problem in Norway and loads of passengers were held up. We still boarded just after 7pm and left close enough to on time 8pm. Ate our buns and pastries, Troy went and watched the sunset, I just went to bed as didn’t feel like getting windswept.